85 150 fwd AOD 302 efi 2 issues stalling on start and shifting issue

[screaminL]

1/3 of the time it stalls after starting than starts and runs fine.  New plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter

I serviced  transmission and Filter drained tqe converter new fmco oil 12 qts
seems to hit all shift points when slowing down to almost a stop or stop transmission slips wont take off again
I put in park run thru gears and it drives away fine
I set TV cable in park motor off all loose and snaped on.

[mat in tn]

very strange description. but mostly it sounds as if the tv cable is too tight. but let's not assume. you say that you can feel all downshifts. they should be nearly unnoticeable. how well do you feel the upshifts? do they seem to be a little late but firm? is there any chance that you have a pressure gauge to read the tv initial response pressure?

[screaminL]

the shifts are smooth up and down it truly acts normal untill the down shift to low that becomes nothing
what are the threads on the  transmission to hook gage to? what should be the pressure?

[mat in tn]

there are a few taps, one on the driver side for testing the pressure coming from the pump. 1/8" npt. if you have a gauge set it will have these adapters. there are three on the passenger side, but they can be a little harder to reach due to the catalytic converter is right there. harder if it's hot! the rearmost tap is for the direct clutch literally one inch from the tail shaft housing. the next one going forward is for throttle valve set pressure. it is back in a bit of a recess and harder to see. I use a 2" nipple with a brass 90 on the end (these two are tightened on a vise beforehand to make them one and then much easier to install and remove). the most important pressure to measure is tv. at idle it needs to be below 5 psi but is best at 0 with immediate throttle response. too late and clutches slip when they need to grip and too much pressure and they don't relax when they should.
if you are only testing tv pressure then a 0-100 gauge is ok but if you are testing pump output you need one capable of reading 0-300 psi. average under throttle can be 180-220 and this is very variable as it depends on many factors but mainly rpm. an automatic is a pump first and a transmission second.

[Gary Lewis]

Don't forget that we have the factory shop manual instructions on the AOD/AOT here.

[85lebaront2]

Mat, it sounds like he has a valve body issue, due to the no drive in 1st after slowing way down or stopping. In OD the forward clutch is released to allow the OD band to hold the front drum. If the valve controlling the forward clutch is sticking (and it could be more than one) the transmission will effectively be in neutral when it downshifts.

I was trying to find a hydraulic diagram for it, but I am drawing a blank. There is a TSB (85-10-12) regarding the 3-4 shift valve design change that addresses a no drive condition after a coast down from 4th gear.

1985 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L VIN N FI  Copyright © 2013, ALLDATA  10.52SS   Page 1
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - AOD No Forward Drive Condition
Article No. 85-10-12
TRANSMISSION - AUTOMATIC - AOD - NO FORWARD DRIVE AFTER COAST DOWN FROM FOURTH GEAR
FORD 1983-1985 FORD, THUNDERBIRD, LTD, MUSTANG
LINCOLN-MERCURY 1983-85 MERCURY, COUGAR, MARQUIS, CAPRI, LINCOLN, MARK, CONTINENTAL LIGHT TRUCK
1983-85 E & F SERIES
Some AOD-equipped vehicles with transmissions built between March, 1983 and April 19, 1985, may
exhibit a no forward drive condition after coast down from fourth gear. This condition may occur if
a small particle of contamination causes the 3-4 shift valve to stick in the forward clutch exhaust
position.
Figure 11 - 3-4 SHIFT VALVE DESIGN
To service this condition, install a new 3-4 shift valve that has a design with flats on the valve.
This will allow contamination to pass and be trapped in the main control filter assembly. The new
valve was incorporated in production April 19, 1985. Refer to Figure 11 for visual differences
between 3-4 shift valve design levels.
PROCEDURE:
1.  Verify that the transmission was built between March 1, 1983 and April 9, 1985.
2.  Remove the main control assembly from the vehicle according to the Main Control Removal
Procedure in Section 17-20 of the appropriate model year Car or Truck Shop Manual.
3.  Partially disassemble the valve body to expose the valve body face by following Steps 1 and 2
of the Valve Body Disassembly Procedure in Section 17- 20 of the Shop Manual. This involves
removing the separator plate, valve body gasket and all check balls.
4.  Attempt to verify the concern by visually checking the 3-4 shift valve to see if a small
particle of contamination is blocking the valve.
5.  Remove the 3-4 shift valve bore sleeve from bore No. 5 as illustrated in the Shop Manual. The
valve should fall out freely. Remove all springs and the 3-4 TV modulator valve.
6.  Thoroughly clean the bore passage with solvent.
7.  Pour solvent cleaner over the valve body face, spill solvent from passages, and blow dry with
clean compressed air.
8.  Replace the 3-4 shift valve with the flatted design (Part No. E5AZ-7F259-A). Reassemble the 3-4
TV modulator valve and spring, the new 3-4 shift valve and spring, the throttle plug sleeve, and
the retaining clip in bore No. 5 as illustrated in the Shop Manual.
9.  Reassemble the valve body by reversing Steps 1 and 2 of the Valve Body Disassembly Procedure.
Be sure to use a new valve body gasket.
10.  Reinstall the valve body by reversing Steps 1 and 2 of the Valve Body Disassembly Procedure.
Be sure to use a new valve body gasket.
11.  Reinstall the valve body on the transmission according to the Valve Body Installation
Procedure in Section 17-20 of the Shop Manual.
PART NUMBER    PART NAME       CLASS
E5AZ-7F259-A     3-4 Shift Valve      C OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None

1985 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L VIN N FI  Copyright © 2013, ALLDATA  10.52SS   Page 2
WARRANTY STATUS: Reimbursable within the provisions of the Warranty and Policy Manual. OPERATION:
Refer to the Labor Standards Manual for applicable operation and time. 77396A2 TIME:  1.3 Hrs.
DLR CODING:  Basic Part No. 7A100 - Code: 41

[screaminL]

cold in park I have over 50psi at the TV port?

[mat in tn]

whoa! it should be closer to zero! like zero! try this. disconnect the cable at the transmission end and test it again. I would expect 20-30. then reconnect and disconnect the throttle body end and retest. it should be zero. these tests will lead us in one of two directions.

[screaminL]

when attached to transmission and disconnected at throttle it is above 50
when disconnected at trans it is zero-
 I do not see an adjustment at the transmission the cable is  about 3/8" long
is the lever the tv cable hooks to  kinda free floating slighty ahead of all the way back
or should it be in a position held internaly?

and thank you for the help

[mat in tn]

with the tv cable disconnected at the trans. the tv lever should be able to be moved forward very easily to a stop. then easily back to a stop. yet as you let go of it, it should spring back from the rear stop a little. there should be a little spring back resistance when pushing it rearward repeatably.
however, with the cable disconnected at the throttle body it shows 50 but disconnected at the trans shows zero. that sounds like the problem is in the tv cable assembly itself. has it been off? was it put back on correctly has the tv arm been off? has it been put back on correctly?
the factory tv cable has a lower portion with a corrugated rubber cover covering a return spring. this is to push the tv lever rearward to the stop to achieve zero psi. the upper end holds the adjuster. its most likely a mis adjustment but even the cable assembly is a mechanical part which can fail. not too common though. anyways look for signs of something having been worked on or go back to something you did. last thing touched etc.

[screaminL]

recently bought the truck from Cali, im in maine
last documented maintained 65000 miles ago.
thanks

[mat in tn]

where in Maine? I try to go there annually. my father lives in central Maine and I'm probably going next month. I've been waiting out mud season haha.

[screaminL]

stockton springs- mid coast
I took it her to the local transmission specialist this am
just got her back- the person who serviced her left out the filter gasket!! mading 30 year mechanic

[mat in tn]

if I'm understanding correctly. the person who previously serviced it left out the gasket. that will cause it to lose prime intermittently. but I guess you got that sorted and now it's good?

[LastDeadLast]

screaminL wrote

1/3 of the time it stalls after starting than starts and runs fine.  New plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter

Mine has the EXACT same problem.  Any progress on this?  I have checked everything I can think of.. ignition, timing, TPS, IAC valve, fuel pumps (and pressure), cleaning throttle body, ... it's driven me crazy.  All that I listed was able to get the frequency down to about 25% of the time, but never eliminated.

Id love to know if anyone has any suggestions.. I'm reading no codes.

-Shannon

[mat in tn]

the symptoms you describe sound fuel related. basically, if it stays running after the second start then all requirements are met and are available for the truck to run. so, what is possibly different on the first start after sitting for an extended time? 1 hour, a day, a week? look at the static fuel pressure. this sounds as if the expected retained pressure has dropped, and the first start just gives enough run time of the pump to restock the lines a bit. enough for the second to hold. one test would be to turn the key to run only three times in sequence then start. this is how we prime a known dry system after a filter change or other service which required opening the lines. if this works then one of the components is bleeding off the static pressure. possibly a pump, pressure regulator or even an injector or two. this last one could be more of a problem and not just an annoyance. if bad enough fuel can wash out the cylinder of all oil film and so on.
the ecu will trigger the fuel pump relay for a couple seconds to replenish fuel pressure then cycle off but that is only for the amount of loss that is expected under normal circumstances.