Build update 2

[ArdWrknTrk]

Whose Y-pipe are you using?
Or is it stock and you got one of those weird 350 4x4 cross members?
My 250 fits the stock head pipes fine, but I'm using the old T-19 cross member , moved back.

[85lebaront2]

When I changed Darth over from carburated/C6 to EFI/E4OD I found two items that caused some fun.

(a) Exhaust flange angles were different on the carburated exhaust manifolds and EFI manifolds also exhaust port size and shape were different so the manifolds had to match the heads.

(b) E4OD is a long beast, actual difference from the C6 is only 3" but the mount pad is 9" further back.

Neither the original dual head pipes nor the EFI/E4OD pipes were a true Y, both were an assembly with a flange at the back end where the original pipes bolted to the extension pipes and the EFI pipes bolted to the catalytic converter. My exhaust shop had a flange from a replaced catalytic converter and used it to mate the extension pipes to the "new" front pipes/ The front pipes are rather long as they actually go over the transmission crossmember.

Good luck with fitting everything!

[Ifitaintbroke]

Well fellas, sorry for the late reply, I been workin. The exhaust is custom, and was on the truck when I got it. I have tri-y headers. The y pipe is old and rusty(but solid, just ugly) so I'm thinking of having new pipe made. The problem with that is not the price, but having to get the truck to the muffler shop. It's only about 6 or miles away, but that a loooooong drive with open headers. Not a good way to make friends. So I'm stuck for now till I make a decision. Or I could take it to:

[Gary Lewis]

No!  Not

[Ifitaintbroke]

Ah come on Gary! With a Sawzall and a hammer you can do anything!

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not sure he has a hammer, but he sure has a Sawzall.  And he used it on my frame!  

[Ifitaintbroke]

Where on the frame? And I didn't think  usually went that far north. He can't survive long outside of the humid subtropics.

[Gary Lewis]

He did it when Big Blue was in Florida.  Check out the post here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p29309.html

[Ifitaintbroke]

That's terrible! And what is true in Florida is true in Georgia. Out of the 100+ "mechanics" I know, I would trust less than 5 to change my oil. (I change my own oil anyway)

[ArdWrknTrk]

He used it on your engine crossmember......    😢

You cut your frame for header clearance

I've done everything but alignments to my truck since I got it in '88.
This past spring I hired a well recommended shop to change my clutch (not because it was bad, mind..)
And paid for them to screw it up. 😡
It haunts me every day.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes,  cut the engine cross member and I cut the frame to accommodate the L&L headers.  (But only a little bit.  )  I'm not at all worried about where I cut the frame, but the cut on the cross member was very concerning.  However, given the prep and welding that Welder Scott did it is no longer a concern.  

[Ifitaintbroke]

Well recommended doesn't mean a thing. Most of the shops I know hire druggies. One local shop owner actually used to pay his "mechanics" in dope. And it wasn't weed either.

[Ifitaintbroke]

Got the pipe marked today where it's hitting. Hopefully will run it by the muffler shop this week and see if they can crimp it. If not, I'll have to figure out how to get the truck up there to have new pipe run. Good thing I have a lot of connections!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Why not just drive it, Bradley?
Are the collectors pointing right at the gas tank?
No one else in your town has open pipes on their vehicle?

If I was 900 miles closer I'd bed it over there, but I don't have the time or fuel to make that happen.

[Ifitaintbroke]

Well, I know I CAN do it that way... but the muffler shop is in town and right next to a residential area. If I have to I will.

[mat in tn]

you will most likely not be the first. I know I have trailered a few to get pipes done but still needed to drive off the trailer. they are used to it, I'm sure.

[Ifitaintbroke]

Just tried to turn it over to check the oil pressure and it won't turn over. I have two separate problems going on at the same time. No power from the igniton switch to the solenoid, and, when I jump the solenoid terminals, the starter bendix is kicking out and not doing anything, as if the motor were locked up. I don't have a big enough socket to turn the crank at the moment, and I DO NOT feel like dropping the column to get to the switch. I'm at my wits end with this. The only thing I can do is pull the starter and see if it's working. For context, this is a fairly new pmgr unit with no previous issues.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yeah, a conventional bendix wouldn't throw unless the motor turned.

The starter relay trigger wire (R&B) has provision for a clutch switch AND a transmission position sensor.
One of these isn't connecting or is out of adjustment.
You can jump the clutch switch with a spare fuse.
The transmission position switch should be jumpered by a plug at the end of the harness.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wait!
The starter solenoid wouldn't throw if it wasn't getting triggered.

YOU have a problem with the starter cable or the little braided tail that goes from the hot stud that the cable attaches to into the starter.....

[mat in tn]

what is the battery voltage?