The FORD Lounge

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - That sounds like a H U G E mess!!!  

Danny -  You might consider the way I went with an inverter and a 110v compressor.  

[Danny G]

Gary Lewis wrote

Jim - That sounds like a H U G E mess!!!  

Danny -  You might consider the way I went with an inverter and a 110v compressor.

Where did you put the compressor? I have a old Kobalt quiet tech 2 gallon sitting in the garage. It pulls about 6 amps @120VAC and is capable of 1.7CFM@90psi 125PSI max. It runs at like 55db.


I also have the next level up that replaced that one which has double the CFM and maxed at 150psi in the shed.

[Gary Lewis]

I put the compressor in the middle of the toolbox that is in the bed, put the control panel in the toolbox also, and put the tank below the bed in front of the right rear tire.  It is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise.  Plus, it has a max PSI of 200.

I can find pics if you'd like.

[Danny G]

Gary Lewis wrote

I put the compressor in the middle of the toolbox that is in the bed, put the control panel in the toolbox also, and put the tank below the bed in front of the right rear tire.  It is rated at 1.5 HP and it puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI into a 4 gallon tank and generates 80 dba of noise.  Plus, it has a max PSI of 200.

I can find pics if you'd like.

Yea any guidance on how you did it and/or issues you ran into. I'm kind of curious with the space under the hood if say above the driver side wheel well would be a good mount spot kinda like the tool box/second battery set up.

[Danny G]

My unit is definitely going to be smaller. I am going to run out and measure them now.

The York 210 from what I have seen people report will flow 7-8cfm and take a 12gallon tank up to 175psi from about 150 in 30seconda flat.  But I don't need something that serious. Were talking airing up flat tires, maybe running a couple air tools.

[Nothing Special]

Danny G wrote

Where did you put the compressor? I have a old Kobalt quiet tech 2 gallon sitting in the garage. It pulls about 6 amps @120VAC and is capable of 1.7CFM@90psi 125PSI max. It runs at like 55db.


I also have the next level up that replaced that one which has double the CFM and maxed at 150psi in the shed.

Keep in mind that 6 amps at 120V is60 amps at 12V.  Or that Gary's 1.5 hp is ~1100 watts, or ~93 amps at 12V.  So it's definitely possible, but it is serious automotive electrical power, and needs to be wired accordingly.  And you probably don't want to run it (at least much) without the engine running.

(This is why most 12V air compressors are so anemic.  Too much copper is required to get them enough power otherwise)

[Danny G]

I was wondering what that draw looked like. Definitely a second battery and inverter situation. I was going to put a large inverter in there too.

I was just checking the numbers the 3/4 horse unit that flows 1.4CFM is packaged in a 12.5W x 12L x 6H unit the stronger unit is this guy here and it's about 11W x 4L x 8 H.


Max psi on this one is 150. 2.8CFM at 90psi and pulls 7.5 amps.

TBH they are probably the same induction motor just one is in a case and dialed back due to a smaller tank.

Power inverters are internally fused. A 2000watt continuous like Harbor freight sells has 8 x 30 amp fuses and connects to your battery with an 8Gauge cable under 6ft.

A 7.5Amp compressor is going to pull 855 watts so a 2k inverter is more than enough.

Assuming inverters consume about 150Ah per 1000Watts a 300Ah deep cell should last 2+ hours with the engine off running that compressor.

I think it doesn't matter which way you go you are going to spend money adapting the system. Electric needs inverter and wire. The York 210 is going to need to be mounted to the smog pump location in a way it can be belt driven and the clutch needs to  controlled as needed. Everything else is on the same footing.

[Gary Lewis]

Start reading at this post to see how I tested the inverter and compressor.

Still looking for the posts about installing the compressor.  But here's a shot as I was installing the compressor, the black thing, and the control panel.

[Danny G]

Thanks Gary I appreciate it. I will look later while I'm traveling . I got started down the choke documentation as the PO has a manual Choke in the truck. Looks like I need to see what carb is currently installed before I go any further. I guess I'm just trying to understand what parts are in the system  and how they work.

That and why the thermostat house has two 3 port vacuum trees lol.

[viven44]

Danny G wrote

That and why the thermostat house has two 3 port vacuum trees lol.

(Apologize if this isn’t Lounge talk)

Let me regurgitate recent memory on this since I have 2 trucks with the 460. Gary and Jim helped me figure this out when I was doing my 78 Bronco. Here is a video on a portion of that https://youtu.be/vZLuqVgxB-M?si=WNnlvIv_bGexpJJw

One should be a 2 port valve and the other a 3 port valve.
- The 2 port valve helps supply PORTED vacuum to the EGR valve through a VDV (Vacuum delay valve) after the coolant is warm enough.. I think 160F+..
- The 3 port valve is to supply vacuum to the distributor.
Center ---- connected to distributor
PORT 1 (top)---- when cold -- the vacuum is routed through a VREST (little blue device) to the intake which provides a stable vacuum signal until the truck is warm
PORT 2 (bottom) ---- when warm (~125 maybe) -- the vacuum is hooked up straight to the manifold as the vacuum should be stable when the truck is warmed up sufficiently

The old valves on my 460 were probably not working...

I was unable to buy a 2 port valve (not able to find it.. but I didn't look hard enough honestly)
I tried using the 3 port valve for the EGR that I bought from JBG.. unfortunately it doesn't work well because I think the truck is still not warm enough (~125) to run EGR. I need to try the 2 port valve if I can find it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

One thermal valve is for EGR the other is for vacuum advance if overheating.

The distributor pulls in more advance at idle, spinning the fan and water pump faster when that 460 is stuck in a traffic jam.
Think of it like an idle kicker that is also making for cooler ignition.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think this is why Gary put the 3000w (6000 peak) inverter I gave him behind the seat, and ran a 120V cord to the compressor head.
That inverter has multiple outlets and usb A's I believe...
It also had a remote on/off but I don't think I could find that.
He has it wired into his mission control panel anyhow.  💡

[Gary Lewis]

Nothing Special wrote

Keep in mind that 6 amps at 120V is60 amps at 12V.  Or that Gary's 1.5 hp is ~1100 watts, or ~93 amps at 12V.  So it's definitely possible, but it is serious automotive electrical power, and needs to be wired accordingly.  And you probably don't want to run it (at least much) without the engine running.

(This is why most 12V air compressors are so anemic.  Too much copper is required to get them enough power otherwise)

Jim & Bob are right.  It takes a LOT of 12V current to run my compressor, but it does a fantastic job to air up tires.  Probably 10x faster than most 12V compressors - which makes sense as it uses 10x the current.

I don't even think about running it w/o the engine running, and even then unless I use the hand throttle and bring the engine up to ~1000 RPM it won't keep the battery charged.

[ArdWrknTrk]

As long as the inverter isn't screaming "low voltage" you should be fine.
But if the tank won't even come up to pressure before that happens, then engaging PTO mode makes sense.

Back in the carburetor days you'd just have a kicker solenoid that would raise the throttle stop.

And while there are losses in every step of turning mechanical energy into electricity, stepping up the voltage and making AC, taking AC to turn a motor, to turn a pump... where a Sanden or other swash plate compressor cuts a lot of that out it still doesn't offer you the ability to charge your phone or brew a cup of coffee...

And that's where a big enough inverter really shines.
6kW is a lot of inrush or momentary load.
You can get work done with that puppy!  

[Nothing Special]

There are multiple ways to get a "good" air compressor in a vehicle.  Something mechanical driven by the engine.  A 110V compressor with an inverter.  A 12V compressor with a big motor (Warn used to have a winch with an integral air compressor.  But it was something like a 4.5 hp motor so it drew a lot of current).  But none of these are close to as cheap and easy as buying a 110V compressor and plugging it into your garage outlet.  And all of them have their advantages and disadvantages.  You pays your money and takes your choice.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You missed the PTO drive.
Compressor or generator, doesn't really matter.
Plenty of horsepower. Easy to engage or disengage....

[Nothing Special]

I was lumping that in under "mechanical."  But yes, PTO driven can get you a lot more power than belt-driven.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you clarified.  I took "PTO" to be turning on the PTO function in EEC-V to up the idle RPM - which doesn't work on mine.  (But the hand throttle does.)

Anyway, a PTO-driven compressor would be nice.  Not sure how big of one would fit beside a ZF5, but it would sure make it simple.

However, it won't brew your coffee or charge your AC-powered devices like the inverter does.  Yes, there are 12v chargers for a lot of things, but my walkie talkies, headlamps, & flashlights didn't come with them.  Instead they came with 110V chargers, which I've plugged into the inverter.  So any time the engine is running those things are getting charged.

And yes, the inverter yells at me that the battery voltage is getting low from time to time, but it still goes on creating 110V AC and the compressor still runs.  So it isn't getting too low, and that's not the starting battery, so there's no problem.

[Danny G]

Man where are these advertised gas mileage ratings lol these are the best Ford truck commercials.

https://youtu.be/99uAss0EKxQ?si=_LMqGQiVbVDJWeN-

[Danny G]

In the Ranger I have a 12v stand alone in a case behind the bench it does a great job TBH for airing up tires.

It takes a tire from 0 to 35 pretty quick flows 2.5cfm and rates to 150psi. Dual pump draws 25amps  Duty cycle is only 33%.


I have it paired with a 4 way chuck... This is the greatest tire inflation purchase I have ever made. You just hook up all 4 tires and let the pump go. You get equal pressure to all tires and don't have to run around. To each tire.